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Free Soap Making Batch Record Template

Any crafter that is making a handmade product that people will be ingesting or using on their body should really be utilizing batch records. If you have made the same soap scent two dozen times, and suddenly discover a bar that is lye heavy, how on earth are you going to track down which bars need to be recalled if you don’t have a soap making batch record to track down the problem?

Ways Batch Records Are Helpful
It’s easy to forget how much fragrance or colorant you used when trying to recreate a product. I used to just write it down on a piece of paper and then if I remembered, I’d go into a Google Doc and record all that information. But sometimes when the cure date came around, I couldn’t locate that piece of paper anymore. Was it my vegan recipe or my lard recipe? This is really important information!

A batch record has all that stuff in one convenient place for next time. Just print them off, and keep them in a binder. When you make it again, print off a new record and put it in front of the previous one.

On my own batch records, for the batch number, I use a date system. Say the fragrance is “Lovely Lilac,” for example. My batch number would be “LL011217” – the date being the date the soap will finish curing (January 12, 2017). With this method, you also know how long the soap has been sitting around in your inventory.

Now let’s take a look at how a batch record can help you narrow down what happened with a problem batch.

Batch Numbers
Every time you make a product, you will print off a new batch record and update the batch number, production date, etc. And when that product is packaged, your batch number from that record will be printed on your labels. That way, if someone complains about a product (or you discover it yourself), you just have to check the batch number on the package to see which one is a problem.

Lot Numbers
The next question is whether the problem is from an error that you made, or if one of your ingredients is to blame. As long as you record the lot number of each product that went into your batch, you can compare it with the previous batch and see if anything changed. Maybe the lot number on your lye changed? That could be one place to investigate. See if anyone else in your industry has been having issues with the same lot number. Check your other scents that used the same lye and see if there is a problem with them, too.

Free Soap Making Batch Record Template

I’ve created a batch record template for others to use, so “I never had time to sit down and make one” is no longer an excuse. This template has soap-specific input fields, like cure date, trace speed and fragrance discoloration.

Download the Soap Making Batch Record Template. (This is a Google Doc)

batch record template

Feel free to copy the template and make changes. If you have suggestions on how to improve it, please let me know!

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How to Make an Emulsified Sugar Scrub

emulsified sugar scrub
This coffee-scented scrub has 2 T of ground cardamom added in place of 1 ounce of sugar. Click on the photo to view it on Etsy.

It’s taken me two and a half years to get around to making sugar scrubs. I’m not really sure why…maybe because “emulsified” sounded intimidating…maybe because I rarely purchased them to use myself…or it could have just been laziness. Whatever the reason, I finally kicked myself in the pants and said “get on with it already!” I decided that having mostly soap wasn’t serving my customers as well as having a variety of products would. So I’ve been experimenting and gradually rolling out some new things.

And you know what? Customers have been expressing great interest in these new things! And emulsified sugar scrubs are actually super easy to make, so I don’t know what I why I was being so stubborn. If you’ve been intimidated by scrubs, now is the time to dive in and get your hands dirty. Or clean…

Emulsified Sugar Scrub Recipe and Instructions

Slowly heat the above ingredients just until melted. Allow to cool to under 122 degrees F. Then mix in the following:

  • .35 oz (0.1% to 0.5% <– that’s point five %, not a half %) Liquid Germall Plus
  • .65 oz (1%) Fragrance or Essential Oil

At this point, place the mixture in the refrigerator until it looks thickened and the bottom of the bowl doesn’t feel warm. Blend with a hand mixer until you have a pudding consistency. Now you can add your sugar.

  • Up to 64 oz of cane sugar
  • Up to 1/2 tsp mica if you choose to color your scrub. Mix the mica into your sugar before adding to your emulsion

Stir sugar into your emulsion until well incorporated, then spoon into jars. This recipe made 10 jars of scrub (9 oz each), with about 6 ounces left over. I split the batch in two and made two different fragrances. That left enough extra to offer a small tester jar of each at markets.

This is a very thick scrub, so there is no dripping oil when you use it. Feel free to experiment with the amount of sugar you use, in case you prefer a thinner scrub. You can add other exfoliants in place of some of the sugar, as well.

Don’t want to make it yourself? You can purchase one here.

Do you have a favorite sugar scrub? What additives do you like to use in yours? I’d love to hear from you in the comments!

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A Better Recipe For Cold Process Salt Bars

positano salt bar 2The first time I tried making salt bars, I was just a beginner at soap making. I only used a 10% superfat and the soap made my skin really dry. Ever since then I’ve been kind of iffy about trying salt bars again. And I resolved that if I did try again, I was going to use less coconut oil, even if the lather suffered for it.

So I stalked some Facebook groups for conversations on salt bars and found that not everyone uses 100% coconut oil in their recipes. Yay! So armed with that knowledge, I came up with a new recipe, dropping my coconut oil down to 75%; and I came away with a soap I really enjoy.

75% Coconut Salt Bar Recipe
I had planned to use all white salt when I made this soap, but discovered I only had about 12 ounces of regular sea salt. Oops! But I had this other pink Himalayan salt, and since the pink salt would color the soap, I decided to do a two-tone soap instead of a solid pale pink bar.

After combining the lye and oils, I added my fragrance and split the batch in two. I added my mica to one half and added the white salt to it. Then I filled each soap cavity halfway. After that, I added the pink salt to the other half of my batter and filled the cavities the rest of the way.

And you know what? This soap has lots of lather and just the right amount of exfoliation. I love it! I think I could have cut the coconut oil to 50% and it still would have worked. I guess I’ve got an experiment for another day, but I’m going to roll with this recipe for now and make some more scents with it.

If you’d like to try this soap before you make it, I’ve listed them for sale here.

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How to Rebatch Soap in the Oven

ugly soap
They can’t all be beautiful, I guess.

I messed up a soap recently…I purchased a salad shooter and made the mistake of soaking my soap shreds before adding them to my soap. Of course, they turned to mush and looked awful in the soap. I shouldn’t have added them at all (another case of I should have gone with my gut, but didn’t). I decided it wouldn’t sell looking like that, so I’d better rebatch it. I had only had to rebatch soap once before – I used the crockpot and it got really dried out, so I wanted to try a different method. After reading through the Bramble Berry guide to rebatching, I decided to try the oven method at the bottom of the tutorial.

I had two loaves of this disaster soap, but after cubing up one loaf, I realized only one loaf would fit in my baking dish. So I did one loaf at a time. With the first loaf (3.2 pounds), I added a cup and a half of water (which is about 1/2 C per lb of soap).

This is less than the tutorial recommended, but I felt like 1 cup per pound of soap was an awful lot of water.

rebatch soap
Cubed soap ready for rebatching.

Turns out, even the amount I used was too much water. I froze the soap the next day to get it out of the mold, but it’s been sitting on the counter for three days and it’s still very soft. *sad face*

So the next day, I rebatched the second loaf using only a half cup of water total. This one turned out much better. So, here is the process, all laid out:

Rebatch Soap in the Oven Tutorial

Step 1: Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

Step 2: Cut your problem soap into cubes and place them in a baking dish.

Final result.
Final result. It looks like hot process, huh?
Step 3: Add 2.5 Tablespoons of water per pound of soap.

Step 4: Cover your dish with foil.

Step 5: Bake soap for 35 minutes, stir and bake an additional 35 minutes. Stir again.

Step 6: At this point the soap is going to be the texture of hot process soap. You are now ready to add color and/or fragrance to your soap and scoop it into your mold. Be prepared to work quickly. Just like hot process soap, rebatch soap likes to get firm quickly. You could add a little sodium lactate to the melted soap to keep it fluid for a little longer.

I still froze the soap the next day to get it out of the mold, and then let it sit overnight. I was able to cut it the following day with no issues. One day later, the bars are softer than a regular bar would be, but I know it will harden up soon. The first batch…time will tell. That one might get pitched.

rebatch soap top
I added glitter for good measure. And that’s Layla (she’s being super needy and won’t let me take a photo without her).
Notes: My soap was only a few days old when I did my rebatch. That may be why I only needed 2.5 Tablespoons of water per pound of soap. If your soap is fully cured, or even older than that, you might need more water than this. I haven’t tested it, so I don’t know for certain, but it does seem logical.

Who else hates to rebatch soap? Do you have a better method? Please, share it in the comments!